The trip was to be 5 days of paddling along Isla Espiritu Santo, about an hour long boat ride north of La Paz. That was pretty much all we knew until the first meeting.
Note that Scott also contributed some photos to these collections. Much appreciated.
Sunday 2023-03-12, Day 0
We all gathered at the 7 Crowns for our initial meeting. Everyone introduced themselves around the table and then got an intro for what we would be doing, along with some extra warnings about the heat and sun. Then we each got 3 dry bags, and a wet suit, snorkel and fins to try on. Mission complete. Stewart and I had no real options for parking our rental cars. I left ours near the El Morro hotel, who had told us we were welcome to park on the street. The El Morro looked to be in a nice part of town, so I wasn’t worried.
Monday 2023-03-13, Day 1
The day started at the 7 Crowns, where we left most of our baggage at the hotel and took taxis to the marina. A 90 minute boat ride got us to the southern end of Isla Espiritu Santo. We met our kayaks, loaded our gear on board and were off. The first bay, Baja de San Gabriel, is a protected frigate bird breeding ground. Then we turned and paddle in head winds as we worked our way north to Playa Corralitos. We staggered onto the beach and selected our tents while the guides set up the rest of camp. The first thing the guides set up was a large tarp to provide shade. This was absolutely critical and we spend many hours under it. Wind was still blowing hard. Click HERE to see the camp site and the wind.
Diego introduced us to the porta potty (NOTHING is left on the island), and we learned to how to wash up in salt water. I was also surprised to learn that we would be eating after 7, which was after dark. But the solar lights were an ideal solution and evenings were magical. The guides rotated through cooking duties and all meals were great.
Tuesday 2023-03-14, Day 2
Coffee was at 6:30 every day. Usually followed by a breakfast a little later, although this varied depending on the day’s activities. The wind had died down and the day was going to be hot, so we started paddling early. Getting wet with a dip in the ocean was highly recommended before paddling. We paddled / glided past rocky cliffs, covered in guano-covered cacti. The closer we got to the shore, the more amazing it became. All paddlers were completely swathed in clothing that left no exposed skin, even going as far as to wear neck gaiters pulled up over their faces, leaving a small gap for sunglasses.
We got to Playa Candelero early, claimed our tent and had a wonderful snack in the shade under the tarp. The support boat took us all out snorkeling off of Isla Ballena. Both Tiko and Jennifer noticed the large dolphin pod cruising nearby. Tiko saw it from the boat, while Jennifer heard them under water while snorkeling. As soon as we got everyone on board, we took off in pursuit. We spent time minutes at speed, while the dolphins played around us. Amazingly fast and agile, these dolphins were a highlight. The video HERE, is a must-see. Both Ruben and Diego had caught fish (yellow and red snapper?) for dinner. Then another sunset and “candle-lit” dinner.
Wednesday 2023-03-15, Day 3
Diego swapped up our schedule a bit, keeping the camp at Candalero for a second night. And we would snorkel with sea lions this morning, a few days ahead of schedule. The flat beach behind out tents flooded itself, and the crabs had a field day.
The sea lions were awesome (video can be seen HERE), and we returned to camp for a late brunch. Then a short paddle back to Maglesito for an afternoon on a small beach with nacho snacks. Stewart and Charlie let Sandy and me try out their single kayaks. Fun. We stayed close to the shore and spray skirts were optional. The little cove was very cute and extra shallow as the tide went out. On the paddle back to Candalero, eagle-eyed Sandy spotted a school of mobula rays, cruising 20 feet below our kayaks. You can watch them “fly” by HERE.
Thursday 2023-03-16, Day 4
After our 6:30 coffee, we went for a short hike up the canyon behind us. This had to be done early in the morning, before the heat hit. We hadn’t appreciated how stunning it would turn out to be. And then we paddled to Playa Ensenada Grande, on the next big island, Isla Partida. Again we followed the shore, and Diego walked us through the debris in a bay: lobster shell, cactus husk, white and red fig trees and a large turtle shell.
Once we got set up at our new camp, lunch was served, and those interested went out on another snorkeling trip. Ruben brought stuff up from the bottom to show us. The two puffer fish were adorable. After dinner, as predicted by our guides, a moray eel showed up, having sniffed out our fish guts which were buried in the sand.
Friday 2023-03-17, Day 5
Our last day. Morning stretching on the shade tarp was something we all should have done more of. During coffee, we were offered a choice: swim with sea lions again, or a hike on the northern island, Isla Partida. The group split about 50-50, so there were plenty of participants for both activities. The boat dropped the hikers off just before the final crossing to the sea lion colony. Sea lions were even more fun this time (video can be seen HERE), and wearing double wet suits made me extra happy. We picked up some very hot and dusty hikers on our way back, with the timing being impeccable, as they were just descending the final cliff face as we pulled up on the beach.
Another fabulous meal, take down the tents, pack up all our belongings and assist in the loading of the boats. The boats were both a 100 meters out because of the low tide. The kayaks were loaded up and we never saw them again. The boat ride home seemed quick and Carlos (the 2nd boat captain) spotted another pod of different dolphins, so we zoomed over for a quick peak.
Once back in La Paz, I quickly discovered that my rental car was still in good shape. Sandy and I had to miss the final evening party in La Paz because we had a long drive and a plane to catch in Cabo. It would have been nice to attend.
