Kayaking around Phang Nga Bay, paddling through sea caves and around the “James Bond” islands was a major goal of our Round-The-World trip in 2011.
As with the rest of our trip, we had a tight schedule and only 3 days for our kayaking. We flew into Bangkok and immediately flew down to Phuket, arriving in the evening. Early the next day our long tail took us out onto the bay and we started kayaking, before even unpacking our bags.
2011-11-23 Day 13 Wednesday
Flying to Thailand Day 1: Kuwait to Bangkok to Phuket
I guess this day began just as we left Kuwait, probably while boarding our flight to Bangkok. We were expecting to get a little more sleep, but that didn’t happen. 6 1/2 hour flight, but they served us dinner (an excellent curry chicken) after we had been in the air an hour and a half, then woke us all up 2 hours before landing for breakfast. The wild children hadn’t made the flight go quicker.
Bangkok airport was painless, got our bags, passed immigration, then wndered around the domestic area looking for Bangkok Air to Phuket.Found Bangkok Air, checked in, and once through security we entered heaven: loved the Bangkok Air lounge (free wifi and snacks). Flight to Phuket was pleasant. Bangkok Air advertises a meal on every flight and they delivered.
Phuket airport was a zoo, but the guy with the big “Warren Long” sign was pretty easy to find. Long drive into Phuket itself and discovered that the Baan Orchid was quite a nice place. Quiet, secluded, but on a busy little street. We dashed down to the beach as darkness fell.
We randomly picked a nearby touristy restaurant for Thai food, and was happy with what we got. Bed and Internet as we tried to stay awake, and then tried to fall asleep. Free WiFi tempted us to stay awake longer, but then jet lag the next morning and all the next day would make life even rougher.
2011-11-24 Day 14 Thursday
Kayaking Day 1:
Up at 6:30, which wasn’t easy, for pickup at 7:30. Met Ben and Tom in the van, and spent and hour or so driving to the boat. Had 15 minutes to wander the pier, so bought a cold drink at a nearby stall. Piled onto to the ferry boat and met some of the others who were also going to be with PaddleAsia, although we didn’t know it at the time.
An hour and a half later, we were split into 2 groups, us and Ben and Tom, and the other five. The others were all transferred into a truck, where they were to be taken to the bungalows, then off to somewhere else. We pretty much never saw them again. We were transferred directly onto our longtail, baggage and all, and headed up to Koh Roi.
Another 45 minutes of bouncing thru the waves. We pulled into the bay, and could see the little cave like entrance into the hong. Picked kayaks at random and headed on in. Turned out to be pretty small only about 75 meters across, and only the outside 3 meters was paddle-able: the rest was clogged with mangroves. And we could only go halfway round. and it was only 3 feet deep. But it was still really cool. 🙂
Ducked back out the exit, where the kayaks were all strung together and the captain took us across to Big Tree bay, where we had lunch and saw Big Tree. Big Tree was a Batok tree and the biggest one on Koh Yao Noi. Highlights were lunch (actually every meal in Thailand was a highlight) and climbing up the vines on the side of the Batok tree.
Paddled across a short straight to another bay, which had been a hong but was now a shallow lagoon. Cross current surprised us, pushing us strongly up into the wind which I wasn’t expecting. Tides are really something to be aware of out here. Paddled around the bay, and ducked under a big overhand during a brief rain shower. Unfortunately, the brief rain shower wasn’t what we should have been worried about. We got dumped on by a real deluge as we made our way to the longtail, bobbing in the waves offshore. Since we were already soaked, it didn’t change things much when I tried to help lifting the boats to the roof and slipped on the ladder and fell half back into the sea, various parts still hanging onto the ladder.
We motored in the pouring rain to the nearest Koh Yao Noi docks, then loaded ourselves and our bags into the back of a truck.
Pasai Cottage was just what I was hoping for: a concrete structure at the back with toilet and shower, and a rattan structure on the front, complete with a palm leaf roof. Glorious.
While we expected to meet up continually we the other 5 people paddling with PaddleAsia, that didn’t really happen. Seemed that they were on a different schedule from us, and although we swapped trips for the first couple of days, we each kept with our own guide.
Dinner was great, and when after we suggested that we would share our meal with Ben and Tom, the staff doubled just about everything, so we had way too much food. But we struggled on, and finished everything except for 5 dishes were only partially consumed. Since most of them were fishy things, I felt no guilt.
2011-11-25 Day 15 Friday
Kayaking Day 2:
Struggled to get up and ready in time to eat an 8 a.m. breakfast. Good and simple. Didn’t actually get going until 9 but that turned out to be early enough. Changed plans from Mangrove forest to a different one because of the headwinds and waves while crossing the bay. Ended up on a sandbar in the mouth of a river and put the kayaks into the water. Because we saw a flock of 30 kayaks just starting in one direction, we took off in the other. Glad we did.
The mangrove forest and the cliffs started out impressive and become more and more so as we wound through narrow slots and small chambers. Highlight was probably when the little monkeys came down from the trees and climber all over us.
Lunch on a small little beach just out of the mangroves. Another monkey came down, nowhere near as tame,and we had to feed him 4 bananas to fill him up so that he wouldn’t steal our lunch. How a 10 lb. monkey can eat 3 1/2 bananas, I don’t understand. We finished the rest of our excellent meal in peace, although slightly nervous at having a “fully-loaded” monkey in the tree directly over our heads.
Quick boat ride to “Mushroom” rock island and beach where we paddled about a little bit, in the very strong current between the islands. Saw a few fish in the water among the dusty and muddy bits of coral. Neat location, not much to see in the water.
Back to our home base, where Yone told us he would pick us up at 6 to go into “town”, where we could shop, and then go to a restaurant. Cruised the 7-11, then Sandy bought some souvenirs, and then off to the Sawedi for dinner. Excellent, we loved it, and it was nice to have something spicy, after being babied for a few days.
Cold showers and bed under our mosquito tent nets. Sandy turned the fan off 20 minutes later because it squeaked…
2011-11-26 Day 16 Saturday
Kayaking Day 3: Fly to Bangkok
Late start to the day, we should have stalled even longer because Yone was 40 minutes later than the time I had expected him, 10:10 vs 9:30. No problem, it turned out we had lots of time to spare.As we were now just 3 people, we were transferred to the smaller boat. Kayaks were swapped over and it was a quick and smooth ride to Koh Boi. Pulled up and the park ranger station, and were were off paddling in among big solid mangrove trees, way out in deep water, more like oak trees. Weird to paddle in and around these. We started out in wind and waves, but were quickly on the lee side of the island, paddling along in the calm waters.
An hour later, we began to understand that we were going all the way around the island, and started psyching up for the big wind and waves on the other side. Things turned out to be easier than expected, so no problems there. However, it was also turning out to be a lot farther than some members of our group felt like doing all at once. We hit that stage where you keep expecting every point to be that last one. After about 8 of these, we finally guessed right and we were home, back at the rangers cabin.
Yone set up,lunch while Keiran and I swam and played at climbing in and out of a kayak out in deep water. Then another great lunch, and Yone gave us and hour,to lie around and do whatever. Sandy read while Keiran and I gathered shells and other debris. Yone also arranged for us to take a fresh water shower. This turned out to be a nice well and a bucket. Keiran and I got clean, shampoo included. Sandy opted to remain sticky.
A quick boat ride to the main dock where we played musically ferries, and then were on our way to Phuket. As promised, PaddleAsia picked us up and dropped us off at the airport. Keiran begged for BurgerKing, and Sandy and I felt better when we discovered that that included free WiFi.
Quick flight and taxi ride to our very fancy hotel which seems EXTREMELY POSH after life on the islands. Feeling much happier now that we know the hotel has not been flooded out.
Since it was pretty late, we let Keiran order room service, and he got some buttered Nan and a plate of samosas. Excellent, as you would expect.
