2011-11-23 Day 13 Wednesday
Flying to Thailand Day 1: Kuwait to Bangkok to Phuket
I guess this day began just as we left Kuwait, probably while boarding our flight to Bangkok. We were expecting to get a little more sleep, but that didn’t happen. 6 1/2 hour flight, but they served us dinner (an excellent curry chicken) after we had been in the air an hour and a half, then woke us all up 2 hours before landing for breakfast. The wild children hadn’t made the flight go quicker.
Bangkok airport was painless, got our bags, passed immigration, then wndered around the domestic area looking for Bangkok Air to Phuket.Found Bangkok Air, checked in, and once through security we entered heaven: loved the Bangkok Air lounge (free wifi and snacks). Flight to Phuket was pleasant. Bangkok Air advertises a meal on every flight and they delivered.
Phuket airport was a zoo, but the guy with the big “Warren Long” sign was pretty easy to find. Long drive into Phuket itself and discovered that the Baan Orchid was quite a nice place. Quiet, secluded, but on a busy little street. We dashed down to the beach as darkness fell.
Just picked a nearby touristy restaurant for Thai food, and was happy with what we got. Bed and Internet as we tried to stay awake, and then tried to fall asleep. Free WiFi tempted us to stay awake longer, but then jet lag the next morning and all the next day would make life even rougher.
2011-11-24 Day 14 Thursday
Kayaking Day 1:
Up at 6:30, which wasn’t easy, for pickup at 7:30. Met Ben and Tom in the van, and spent and hour or so driving to the boat. Had 15 minutes to wander the pier, so bought a cold drink at a nearby stall. Piled onto to the ferry boat and met some of the others who were also going to be with PaddleAsia, although we didn’t know it at the time.
An hour and a half later, we were split into 2 groups, us and Ben and Tom, and the other five. The others were all transferred into a truck, where they were to be taken to,the bungalows, then off to ??? We were transferred directly onto our longtail, baggage and all, and headed up to Koh Roi.
Another 45 minutes of bouncing thru the waves. We pulled into the bay, and could see the little cave like entrance into the hong. Picked kayaks at random and headed on in. Turned out to be pretty small only about 75 meters across, and only the outside 3 meters was paddle-able: the rest was clogged with mangroves. And we could only go halfway round. and it was only 3 feet deep. But it was still really cool. 🙂
Ducked back out the exit, where the kayaks were all strung together and the captain took us across to Big Tree bay, where we had lunch and saw Big Tree. Big Tree was a Batok tree and the biggest one on Koh Yao Noi. Highlights were lunch (actually every meal in Thailand was a highlight) and climbing up the vines on the side of the Batok tree.
Paddled across a short straight to another bay, which had been a hong but was now a shallow lagoon. Cross current surprised us, pushing us strongly up into the wind which I wasn’t expecting. Tides are really something to be aware of out here. Paddled around the bay, and ducked under a big overhand during a brief rain shower. Unfortunately, the brief rain shower wasn’t what we should have been worried about. We got dumped on as we made our way to the longtail, bobbing in the waves offshore. Since we were already soaked, it didn’t change things much when I tried to help lifting the boats to the roof and slipped on the ladder and fell half back into the sea, various parts still hanging onto the ladder.
Drove in the pouring rain to the nearest Koh Yao Noi docks, then loaded ourselves and our bags into the back of a truck.
Pasai Bungalows were just what I was hoping for: a concrete structure at the back with toilet and shower, and a rattan structure on the front, complete with a palm leaf roof. Glorious.
While we expected to meet up continually we the other 5 people paddling with PaddleAsia, that didn’t really happen. Seemed that they were on a different schedule from us, and although we swapped trips for the first couple of days, we each kept with our own guide.
Dinner was great, and when after we suggested that we would share our meal with Ben and Tom, the staff doubled just about everything, so we had way too much food. But we struggled on, and finished everything except for 5 dishes were only partially consumed. Since most of them were fishy things, I felt no guilt.
2011-11-25 Day 15 Friday
Kayaking Day 2:
Struggled to get up and ready in time to eat an 8 a.m. breakfast. Good and simple. Didn’t actually get going until 9 but that turned out to be early enough. Changed plans from Mangrove forest to a different one because of the headwinds and waves while crossing the bay. Ended up on a sandbar in the mouth of a river and put the kayaks into the water. Because we saw a flock of 30 kayaks just starting in one direction, we took off in the other. Glad we did.
The mangrove forest and the cliffs started out impressive and become more and more so as we wound through narrow slots and small chambers. Highlight was probably when the little monkeys came down from the trees and climber all over us.
Lunch on a small little beach just out of the mangroves. Another monkey came down, nowhere near as tame,and we had to feed him 4 bananas to fill him up so that he wouldn’t steal our lunch. How a 10 lb. monkey can eat 3 1/2 bananas, I don’t understand. We finished the rest of our excellent meal in peace, although slightly nervous at having a “fully-loaded” monkey in the tree directly over our heads.
Quick boat ride to “Mushroom” rock island and beach where we paddled about a little bit, in the very strong current between the islands. Saw a few fish in the water among the dusty and muddy bits of coral. Neat location, not much to see in the water.
Back to our home base, where Yone told us he would pick us up at 6 to go into “town”, where we could shop, and then go to a restaurant. Cruised the 7-11, then Sandy bought some souvenirs, and then off to the Sawedi for dinner. Excellent, we loved it, and it was nice to have something spicy, after being babied for a few days.
Cold showers and bed under our mosquito tent nets. Sandy turned the fan off 20 minutes later because it squeaked…
2011-11-26 Day 16 Saturday
Kayaking Day 3: Fly to Bangkok
Late start to the day, we should have stalled even longer because Yone was 40 minutes later than the time I had expected him, 10:10 vs 9:30. No problem, it turned out we had lots of time to spare.As we were now just 3 people, we were transferred to the smaller boat. Kayaks were swapped over and it was a quick and smooth ride to Koh Boi. Pulled up and the park ranger station, and were were off paddling in among big solid mangrove trees, way out in deep water, more like oak trees. Weird to paddle in and around these. We started out in wind and waves, but were quickly on the lee side of the island, paddling along in the calm waters.
An hour later, we began to understand that we were going all the way around the island, and started psyching up for the big wind and waves on the other side. Things turned out to be easier than expected, so no problems there. However, it was also turning out to be a lot farther than some members of our group felt like doing all at once. We hit that stage where you keep expecting every point to be that last one. After about 8 of these, we finally guessed right and we were home, back at the rangers cabin.
Yone set up,lunch while Keiran and I swam and played at climbing in and out of a kayak out in deep water. Then another great lunch, and Yone gave us and hour,to lie around and do whatever. Sandy read while Keiran and I gathered shells and other debris. Yone also arranged for us to take a fresh water shower. This turned out to be a nice well and a bucket. Keiran and I got clean, shampoo included. Sandy opted to remain sticky.
A quick boat ride to the main dock where we played musically ferries, and then were on our way to Phuket. As promised, PaddleAsia picked us up and dropped us off at the airport. Keiran begged for BurgerKing, and Sandy and I felt better when we discovered that that included free WiFi.
Quick flight and taxi ride to our very fancy hotel which seems EXTREMELY POSH after life on the islands. Feeling much happier now that we know the hotel has not been flooded out.
Since it was pretty late, we let Keiran order room service, and he got some buttered Nan and a plate of samosas. Excellent, as you would expect.
2011-11-27 Day 17 Sunday
Bangkok Day 1:
Sandy and Keiran said that they would be sleeping in and so I snuck out by myself and went downstairs. Turned out we don’t have a breakfast included, but we do have free WiFi if we hang around the first or 2nd floor. So, I sat around the lobby, and finally accepted a very expensive and very good coffee from the staff.
Ten minutes before breakfast was due to be over, Sandy and Keiran breezed in, expecting breakfast. I broke the bad news. We left the hotel expecting to find something quick en-route to Wat Arun, but the water taxi was so close, that there wasn’t a chance to buy anything. So we hit Wat Arun with a crabby Keiran and opted that our best course of action was to get food into him quick. But that side of Bangkok was pretty non-touristy, so we wandered the busy streets, failing to find anything that we were willing to risk, in spite of the numerous eating establishments. We did sort of stand in line for one for 5 minutes, but gave in and moved on. Breakfast was ice cream from a 7-11. Keiran didn’t mind.
Back to Wat Arun. Paid our entrance fee, and then Sandy had to rent a wrap-around skirt to cover her bare legs. Did that, and then scrambled up the increasingly steep steps. Tried to get a photo similar to what I remember from our old days here, a mere 45 years ago. Nice view.
Back to a ferry to transfer to the other side, where we could start negotiations with a Tuktuk for a ride to the Chatuchak weekend market. Before finding one, Keiran found a nice switchblade, which occupied him for hours, if not days. We made him bargain for it, made easier by the fact that I only gave him 140, and the asking price was 250 Baht. Probably should have just taken the first tuktuk, but we thought he wanted too much, and we opted for a taxi across the street. Same price as the tuktuk.
The market was unbelievable. Over a football field of just tropical fish. Then the same for other pets: bunnies, squirrels, birds, puppies, lizards, snakes… Then furniture, clothing, watches, and all kinds of food stalls stuck into any gaps. Holes in the pavement, bare wires, some fans, crowds of people. We bought a few things, would have loved to buy more, but our suitcases were full before even arriving in Bangkok.
Walked around the bottom of the weekend market and located the Sky Train. The ride was air-conditioned and fast. We got off at the Siam Paragon for some shopping in one of the big department stores / shopping malls. Interesting. Floors were divided into things like food, luxury, electronics. The Paragon department store seemed to have a level on each floor which competed,with the specialty stores. We also did Starbucks. The luxury level even had a bunch of exotic supercars (Lamborghini, Lotus).
Took the Sky Train back to our hotel. We got off, and blundered towards our hotel in the dark. Farther than expected, but we made it, only going down a blind alley once. Ate a very expensive dinner in the fancy Thai restaurant in the hotel. After all that work,in the morning looking for a place to eat, we weren’t really interested in cruising the streets looking for a bargain.
Free wifi was only in the lobby, so hung around there before retreating to our room, and watching the river traffic from our lofty perch. Stayed up too late as was normal.
2011-11-28 Day 18 Monday
Bangkok Day 2:
This time we made it to breakfast, and sat out and the river terrace, with the water lapping at the glass panel at our feet.
Sandy and I basically had coffee, and since Keiran was the primary target for breakfast, he ordered som pancakes with maple syrup. Unfortunately, they also come with gorgeous fried bananas sandwiched between them, so after attempting to pick them out, he stopped eating. I forced myself to eat his left-overs, scooping the bananas back onto the pancakes. Very good indeed.
The goal today was to see more of the river, do the Grand Palace and then the snake farm. Onto a tourist water taxi which we rode all the way to the end of the line, had to pay again to come back down, missed our stop, got off at our original dock, right by our hotel and got onto one of the cheap local water taxis. Spent half an hour waiting for the next one, but once on board, we were there in a flash.
Paid for our entrance fee, and this time, all three of us had to cover our bare legs. We went in to the free lending room, and came out decked to the hilt. Still better than wearing long pants all day. Briefly skimmed the Grand Palace, looked at the emerald Budha, then headed out to find a tuktuk to go to the shopping center. But, we discovered that it was time to buy more money, so we headed off to China town where a map had shown there to be several banks. First one was down, but the second worked fine. Sandy also chose this time to try and exchange Euros for US$ which we were going to need in Siem Reap. Two,exchange rates, Euro to Baht, then Baht to US$. Oh well, it is only money.
Located a tuktuk, and once we convinced him that we really wanted to go where we were indicating ( just a metro stop in the middle of nowhere), we were off and stuck in a smoky, smelly traffic jam. At least our driver shut off,his engine every time we stopped. Got off, walked a few blocks (yes, and maybe visited another Starbucks) and then found that the Snake Farm had closed at 3:30, just like everything else. Walked towards the nearest Sky Train, which turned out to have us passing through Patpong in the early evening. Not seedy yet, but soon. Sky Train to the exit near our hotel, but this time we hopped onto a water taxi and were home in a flash.
Sandy really wanted to see our old stomping grounds, the Westin Banyan Tree, so,we went there for dinner. Good, expensive for Thailand, but so be it. This did leave us with the chance to visit the Patpong Market. Wandered a bunch of alleys in the general direction, and then we were there. Right at the same Sky Train station, but now the streets were packed with stalls and vendors. Went through the whole market in a side street, running parallel to the sex trade one. There were 3 corridors in the market going down the street. The center one was pretty normal, watches, clothing, belts, souvenirs. But the two corridors on either side were pretty racy on the shop side. We bought stuff, and enjoyed the whole bartering event. Resurfaced back near the Sky Train station, but opted to take a tuktuk. Almost the same price as the Sky Train plus water taxi option, but fast and easier. This time the driver was not an older guy, and the ride through the streets was more exciting than we really wanted. I think we will stick with the older guys from now on.
Back to the hotel and pack for departure the next morning.
2011-11-29 Day 19 Tuesday
Bangkok Day 3: Fly from Bangkok to Siem Reap, Siem Reap Day 1:
Once again, the struggle to get everything packed. It would sure be nice to have some room leftover in our packs, but it is too late for that now. Pleasant drive to the airport in a taxi, going against rush hour is always better. Had lots of time to spare, but that seemed to evaporate pretty quickly once we were checked in. 15 minutes on the airport free wifi, then we boarded. Quick flight, about an hour, and as we approached, Sandy’s heart sank as we saw huge flooding, and trees poking out through the water. False alarm, turned out that this was the lake shore. We even saw a floating village from the airplane.
Landed and made our way through the airport efficiently and quickly. Really nice to have our visas already in hand. Sandy had some difficulty following the instructions for the finger printing process. Hotel pickup was there with our name displayed, and we were on our way to the Pavillion Indochine. Good thing too, because Sandy was already starting to fade in the heat.
We spent an hour appreciating our room, had a quick lunch in the hotel, then were picked by our guide, Mr. Pines (pronounced “Mr. Bean”‘ which made it easy to remember) and our driver, Jetack. Our vehicle was to be one of the local remorques, which is a smaller passenger trailer towed by a motorbike. We took off to Angkor Wat. Everything we had hoped for, except for the masses of tourists. Here our guide was invaluable, quickly taking us to the noteworthy spots, selecting alternate routes to avoid the crowds. Mr. Pines also took group photos for us in the really good spots, also important to do quickly before the hoards descended on us.
After an hour recovering in the hotel, Jetack took us downtown to a favourite tourist restaurant (okay, I think it tried to provide western style food, and as such, excelled at neither). Back to the hotel, play on the wifi, have a nice hot shower, then tuck in the mosquito nets and go to sleep. I was cold all night, next night we need to do something different.